MonoPrice Select Mini Ramps Conversion

MonoPrice Select Mini 3d Printer With Ramps 1.4 Board

I recently ran into an issue with my MonoPrice 3d Printer. The heatbed worked one night then the next morning like magic it would not heat up. When I went to take apart the printer for diagnosis it actually fell about 2 feet onto my tile floor (yikes). I was pretty upset as I picked it up to assess the damage. For starters. I had cracked the fan and on top of the that both of my thermocouplers where now showing zero leading me to think the trauma had damaged the MonoPrice Mini’s mainboard.

So I figured I would do what I did with my DaVinci 3d printer and swap out the mainboard for a Ramps 1.4/Arduino setup. I was familiar with the hardware and did not think it would be to difficult and it was not!  I found a really great instructables by user jalex9 that was created showing the process and letting you know what the configuration.h edits where needed to fit the perimeters of the Mini.

Link to Side Panels I made for my Mini to get the USB to the ramps board:

Here is a link to the instructables:

I could not use his version of Marlin (compiling errors) so here is a link to the Marlin firmware GitHub:

Perimeters that need to be changed in Marlin for the MonoPrice Mini 3d Printer (Huge thanks to jalex9 for these settings)

In Configuration.h: (Line numbers are approximate)

Ln. 252 Set TEMP_SENSOR_0 to your extruder sensor type. The stock bead thermister should be 11 (I have an E3D v6 with a cartridge thermistor so mine is set to 5)
Ln. 256 Set TEMP_SENSOR_BED to 11 for the stock bed thermister
Ln. 289 Set HEATER_0_MAXTEMP to somthings smaller than 275 to not destroy your hotend. I used 250
Ln. 293 Set BED_MAXTEMP to something smaller to keep the bed from getting too hot. I used 100
Ln. 489 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 93, 93, 1097.5, 97 } from
Ln. 690 INVERT_X_DIR false, INVERT_Y_DIR false, INVERT_Z_DIR true Ln. 723 Set X_MAX_POS 120, Y_MAX_POS 120, Z_MAX_POS 120 to match the size of the Monoprice bed size so we don’t travel past the limits
Ln. 915 uncomment the #define EPROM if you want to be able to update and write to the EPROM.
Ln. 1109 uncomment #define SDSUPPORT to enable the SD Card
Ln. 1091 uncomment #define DOGLCD if you bought a 128×64 LCD panel
Ln. 1267 uncomment #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER if you bought the same LCD I did

These are the settings he used. I did use all of these with the exception of the last 3 just because I am running Octoprint and am not sure that I want an Lcd or sd support as on my other Octoprint 3d printers I never touch either of the to (choice is yours).

Wiring is simple and as stated in the instructables you can use the stepper motor end plugs without having to cut them.

Easily can be done within a couple of hours. Make sure you take the time to route all wires correctly again. I mounted the ramps board under the 3d printer where the original was but just used zipties. A little rugged I know but its not going anywhere and its under/in the printer so it is not visible.

The printer is printing great once I setup all of my speed settings and its so nice to be able to control my second fan via gcode thanks to the D9 pin on the Ramps board. (I have two fans because I added an e3d style hotend and replaced the stock extruder assembly if you are wondering where the second fan came from)

Since there was not a good way for the usb to get from the ramps under the printer to the raspberry pi mounted on the back of the printer I modeled replacement side panels for the printer. They are printed in two parts and are vented, so I cut one of the vents which allowed enough space for my USB cable to be fed through. Also this also for some heat to come out of the bottom of the printer as it does not have the best ventilation and ramps boards are not known to run the coolest.

If  you would like a link to the side panels just let me know!

Hope this will be useful to some others who may have had something unfortunate happen to their printer!

About: Daniel

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